Pan-Asian in Houston

This outpost of the contemporary Scottsdale-based chain has a menu that's pan-Asian with a European twist and an American foundation. A great sushi bar and a huge aquarium anchor the interior. Dim lighting, blond wood tables and chairs and an open kitchen give the place a cool, contemporary, elegant feel. Standout dishes include sweet-chile-glazed salmon, lemongrass-crusted swordfish, macadamia nut chicken, meat loaf, double-cut pork chop, pesto linguine and pad thai.

Maba Pan-Asian Diner opened in late December of 2016 in the small strip center at the corner of Gray and Brazos in Midtown. Owner/chef Wayne Nguyen’s menu reflects a modern twist on traditional Vietnamese dishes while presenting uniquely inspired creations. The Vietnam Papaya salad is refreshing, light and savory. The pan-fried lemongrass tilapia conjures up southern Vietnamese simplicity, but the fragrant jasmine rice nestled underneath was truly special. With a dozen tables inside, and a handful of tables and a few high-tops and stools on the outdoor covered patio, the minimally decorated eatery is small and cute enough to be quaint, but the flavors are big and the semi-counter service is personal and charming.

The menu at Regal Seafood House and Lounge, the glitzy Stafford outpost from the folks behind Galleria area gem E­Tao, is a bit of a tome. It’s probably a good bet that the soups, for the most part, stand up to the rigors of the deeply flavored and insistent shrimp wonton version, a surprisingly elegant affair worth multiples of its $6 price. The kitchen can also turn out fried rice with the assured sense of purpose demonstrated in a pale and lovely version dotted with pearly shrimp, drifts of delicate egg white and crunchy rounds of thinly sliced Chinese Broccoli, all dusted with just the right amount of dried and shredded scallop. It’s probably safe to assume the same high quality from the broader selection. It’s clear that the kitchen knows how to handle a range of proteins and the treatment of seafood can be quite good. Be wary of sauces; the freshly netted lobster or crab might be blanketed by a glut of overly thickened ones. Look for the dishes with the fewest ingredients—the better to let the kitchen let the star shine. Ask for guidance through the vaguely worded menu, keep it simple, and you should find plenty of riches at Regal.