Peruvian in Houston

After finding critical acclaim but an insufficient market, Peruvian restaurant Piqueo was closed to make way for 429 American Grille. The idea was to convert it into a steak and burger place. The steak is good, especially the fillet accented with either chimichurri or the house-made steak sauce (think A-1). However, the burgers miss the mark. A buffalo burger emerged woefully overcooked (no one asked how we’d like it prepared), and while a Wagyu burger cooked to a proper medium-rare was juicy, it needed the kind of tang and pop that only pickles or roasted red bell peppers could give. It should probably be no surprise that the dishes that are exemplary here are the ones that rely on the experience and background of 429’s well-traveled owners. Perky fresh shrimp atop creamy grits accented with Spanish sherry sauce was a revelation, like sunshine breaking through clouds: a classic Southern dish viewed through a sophisticated, worldly lens. Why do we think that an “American” grill has to serve burgers and steaks? Why can’t an “American” grill reflect the diversity of Houston? If viewing common dishes through that international lens results in more dishes like the shrimp and grits with sherry sauce, consider us on board for the journey.

Ceviche House doesn't look like a great restaurant from the outside. There are bars on the windows of the small space, and there's rarely more than one other diner in the modest dining room. But the outward appearance belies some of the best ceviche in Houston. The leche de tigre is complex with a tanginess that can only be described as electrifying, while the comforting arroz con pollo is tender and juicy. The kitchen is run by one woman whose family takes up front-of-the-house positions, sometimes grudgingly. It's a gathering place for neighborhood folks who stop by for friendly service, quality food and a flat-screen TV that's often tuned to a sports channel. If you're willing to make the drive out to Alief for Peruvian cuisine, the kind folks at Ceviche House will welcome you with open arms and awesome food.

Latin Bites represents the best of Peruvian food and culture, with its ancient ingredients like choclo corn and ají peppers. They mix it up with modern plating and European and Asian fusion at this hip restaurant in Uptown, just outside the Loop. From the classic Peruvian ceviche and tiraditos to the Chinese-inspired lomo saltado, every dish on the menu is well thought out in terms of both flavor combinations and presentation. The synthesis of the traditional and the modern makes for a unique dining experience, different from any other South American food and a far reach from the familiar Mexican cuisine. Don't leave without trying dessert.

Head to Pollo Bravo for lunch, when you can indulge in a lunchtime-only chilaquiles platter that marries the best of Mexico and Peru on one plate: soft, salsa verde-covered chilaquiles next to a quarter of Peruvian-style rotisserie chicken, served with a plentiful portion of super-spicy aji amarillo sauce. At dinner, slow down with a plate of ceviche and a glass of sangria while you catch up with friends; the homey, welcoming dining room almost demands it. Don't forget dessert, either: the homemade lúcuma ice cream is one of the best sweets in town.