Fries in Houston

Balls Out Burger looks the part its name evokes, with burgers that positively ooze beef and cheese. Unfortunately, they eat far tamer than they look. While the default burger here comes devoid of anything but beef and bun swaddled in melting American cheese, you’re better off adding some salad stuff for balance. You’ll also want to opt for the single instead of the jaw-unhinging double. The beef is flavorful and well seasoned, but comes a bit too compressed and bearing an unfortunately weak sear. Overall, Balls Out burgers look, feel and taste an awful lot like the burgers you might make at home, with decent-quality mass-market beef seared in carbon steel and blanketed with American cheese. That said, the expansive patio is a delight during nice weather, the all-Saint Arnold beer selection is a nice touch, and the shakes are homespun delights.

Bar & restaurant with Hill Country-style decor, offering casual grill fare & lots of craft brews.

Killen’s Burgers is a bit out of the way, but worth the trip if you keep a few things in mind. Chiefly, you need to be aware of temps. Ronnie Killen’s local clientele prefers a more thoroughly cooked burger, so the kitchen tends toward medium. For the best burger experience, request yours medium rare. You will be rewarded with an aggressively seasoned and seared patty positively oozing with beefy juice. The loosely packed patties have wonderful texture, and the accoutrements are well chosen and applied in judicious quantity. Killen’s doesn’t focus on outlandish burgers, preferring to let simple but impeccable quality speak for itself. In addition to a fairly standard slate of burgers, Killen’s also affords the opportunity to dabble in more luxurious blends, from dry aged beef to akaushi. Look for off-menu specials, like a burger run through with pork belly and topped with slices of the stuff, griddle-seared until crisp on the outside, meltingly tender within. If you’re not looking for a burger, the chicken-fried steak sandwich is a pinnacle of the form, the shatteringly battered steak dressed simply with mayo, lettuce and tomatoes. It is disarmingly delicious.

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