Arthur Ave seeks to highlight and elevate classic Italian-American fare, lending it an air of sophistication that might feel at odds with its checkered-tablecloth past. While some of these endeavors sparkle and pop, others falter under the weight of their ambition. The re-tuned Caprese makes excellent use of pulled-to-order mozzarella, paring the milky-sweet and creamy cheese against the pop-rocks burst of basil-marinated tomatoes (peeled, for an added bit of subtle luxury) and delicately bitter arugula. It’s a gem of a dish, honoring the spirit of the original while updating and improving it at every turn. Likewise, the finely tuned eggplant parm pays so much attention to so many details that the plate winds up far more than the sum of its parts, and is likely the city’s best example of the dish. At the outer edges lies the crispy lasagna, whose refiguring of the classic might please some and pain others. For our money, it is overly focused on form, allowing the idea to trump reality. It’s an interesting concept, but one that would ring more clearly if it followed more of the rhythms offered by its original inspiration rather than looking for an entirely new beat. While the wine list doesn’t have either the focus or the panache of the one at sister restaurant Helen Greek Food and Wine, the cocktail menu makes up for it with charm and taste. In particular, the Ace High rings clear, bolstering a brace of herbal and bitter components with bright lemon and a fruity Lambrusco float. Expect the place to be noisy, the service friendly but slow.
Bollo is a casual neighborhood spot churning out occasionally great, occasionally greatly disappointing Neapolitan pizzas. A bit of a novelty among Neapolitan specialists, Bollo also offers a full menu comprising small plates, salads and entrées. Unfortunately, most of these fail to deliver. With its assured sear and well-executed, wine-enriched sauce, the pork chop is a surprise standout among mostly lackluster non-pizza offerings. When the pies fare well, they fare quite well indeed, even if some suffer from overthought and overwrought combinations of toppings. Stick with the simpler pies, and you’ve got a good shot at almost great pizza. Like the pies, the service can be a bit spotty.
Cane Rosso serves the most authentic Neapolitan style pizzas in Texas, cooked in our wood-fired ovens in less than 90 seconds at 900 degrees. Named "Best Pizza in Dallas" by D Magazine 5 years in a row, Cane Rosso also serves sandwiches, salads, pastas, and desserts, and also runs a charitable dog rescue group, Cane Rosso Rescue.
Enoteca Rossa is an upscale casual wine bar and Italian restaurant tucked into an under-served section of Bellaire. The menu reads well, and the house produces its own fresh pasta. That said, the pasta is often either over- or undercooked, and the sauces and fillings are a tossup between insipid and inspired. A since-departed ravioli stuffed with jalapeño and ricotta cheese — all lovely chile flavor and just a spark of heat — may have been the best pasta on the menu, reading like a cream cheese-stuffed pepper, translated. The lamb ragu gracing mushy fettuccine is far better than that pasta deserves, rich and luscious and nuanced. Starters are similarly hit-or-miss. The braised shallots with ricotta are surprisingly delicious, showcasing a subtly resonant array of allium flavors tempered by creamy cheese and pricked up with a gilding of agrodolce vinegar glaze, but an ungainly cylinder of barely grilled octopus in unseasoned and uninspiring, sided with a tossed-off medley of grilled vegetables that pops up over and over again. The mains are marred by uneven cooking and often ignored seasoning. Wines by the glass are affordable and offered in decent variety, but the reds are served at Houston “cellar” temp, an unforgivable sin committed all too frequently.
Despite the name, Jus' Mac does serve more than just macaroni and cheese. Its panini — especially the savory meatball and marinara panino – and salads are big winners here, even more so than some of the mac 'n' cheese dishes. Stick to the simple options like Chili Cheese or the standard All American macaroni and cheese skillets for your best bets. And if you want to leave the kids at home, the Heights's Jus' Mac also serves a decent selection of wine and local beer.
